Kepler Track

The severe wet weather is still pummelling the Southland area. But we did our best not to let it get in the way of our exploring. One indoor day was enough, so today we decided to head out on the hike we had planned.

We started the morning with a nice breakfast, looking out over the cloudy lake - chatting with the innkeeper and playing with the resident cat. Soon after, we got on the road to head to the trailhead. There were two options, park the car on the side of the lake and hike three miles to the trailhead, or take a water taxi across the lake and start up the mountain from there. Once we found out it would cost close to $100 roundtrip for the both of us to take the water taxi, we couldn't imagine spending that when our legs could get us there for free. So we drove to the carpark and prepared for the hike.

With the extra three miles (6 roundtrip) added to the hike, we were now looking at a 17-mile trek ahead of us in the cool, wet, drizzly weather. Three miles to the start of the climb, then 5.5 miles up the mountain, then 8.5 back to the car. I was a little nervous, but this is exactly the type of thing I've been doing all of this running and training for.

The hike we had planned was the first stretch of the Kepler Track - one of the multi-day tramp hikes. We planned to hike up to the first hut - the Luxmore Hut, that overlooks the South Arm of Lake Te Anau. Our main concern was whether or not there would be anything to see at the top, given the fact that the clouds had the mountain covered. But we decided to take a chance to see.

Dave and I hammered it up the trail. Maybe it was because I was nervous - the trail guide said it would take us 5 hours to get to the hut (then 5 hours back). But I was determined to prove that estimate wrong. We barely stopped on the way there. And we made the hut in 3 hours!

The main lesson that we learned today is that the New Zealand Department of Conservation is very conservative when it comes to time estimates. The signs said that the return trip would take 10 hours. That's what we budgeted. Our guess is that they are taking into account larger groups, carrying heavy packs.

The first part was in wet, wet, rain forest. And it was up, and up and up. That took about 2.5 hours. Toward the top of that section, the trees began to be covered by a beautiful pale green moss. It was everywhere.

New Zealanders maintain beautiful trails, complete with bridges, stairs and complex drainage systems.

The incredible moss on the trees, near the top of the treeline.

Finally, we emerged above the tree line. And suddenly the climb up was totally worth it. We weren't quite above the clouds, more like at the same level. But there were plenty of high peaks that were showing themselves above the mist - and the clouds parted enough for us to get some incredible views of the lake down below. The last 20/30 mins to the hut was in this high tundra area which was absolutely stunning. Part of the way was on raised platforms so as not to disturb the fragile ecosystem. I definitely channeled my good friend Jon White, and did some running through the open tundra. There was no resisting the urge.

 

 

We turned one last corner and there was the Luxmore Hut. New Zealanders use the term "hut" loosely. It is more like a cabin. It has 55 bunks, flushing toilets, stainless steel tables and propane gas stoves. You have to have a permit in advance to stay there - and along this particular track, there are three. Someone lives there to manage it. You have to remove you boots to go inside to use the restroom. And according to the whiteboard outside, if you were staying the night, there was a mandatory safety discussion at 7:30 p.m.

The Luxmore Hut on the Kepler Track.

We sat on the deck outside to enjoy our lunch and the view. A few minutes later, another man arrived. He was our age, from Salzburg, and three weeks into his eight-week vacation in New Zealand. Really nice guy. We ate lunch together and compared notes on our travels. Soon after he departed, another hiker arrived. He was from Finland and staying at the hut that night as he began his three day journey. One of the best parts of these trips is meeting people from around the world. You basically already have the idea that if they are standing at the top of a mountain, in New Zealand, on a rainy day with you - that you already have a pretty good starting point for a friendship.

Lunch with a view.

The tundra.

After a 40-min break, we starting back down the mountain. Now that we knew that the hike was manageable, we stopped a lot more often to take photos of the trek. We were tired, but we made it back to the car in the same amount of time it took to get up there (actually shorter if you factor in the many photo stops).

For most of the day, it had been drizzling, but nothing bad. But of course, only 20 mins before we got back to the car, the skies opened up and it starting pouring. We spent the last mile of the 17-mile journey getting soaked through. At least it hadn't been raining like that all day.

We were home by 6 p.m., in time to shower, change and join our innkeepers and other guests in the living room for wine and snacks. Another one of my favorite parts of traveling...spending two hours with people who (up until the day before) were strangers and having wonderful conversation and learning about different cultures, worldviews and new travel ideas. The other couple staying at the B&B were there with their two sons - Ben and Jack (11 and 13). They are from Baltimore, but are currently living in Singapore for a few years to give their boys the experience of other cultures. They travel all of the time - and have always done so. They were telling us about taking their boys to Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam, and other places.

Meanwhile, the inn keepers - Russ and Joan. Are native New Zealanders. They still own and operate the family farm, with cattle and sheep. His son and daughter-in-law operate the daily business. Meanwhile, Joan manages the homestay - and perhaps one of the loveliest places we've ever stayed. Russ is also on the city council of Te Anau. And in the winter, they shut the farm and the B&B down and travel the world. Last year, they spent a few weeks in Cuba followed by 28 days camping in Alaska. Not bad for a couple in their 70s. Again, these are the moments that make traveling so wonderful.

About 9 p.m. we headed down into town (in the still pouring rain) and had a lovely dinner at Redcliff Cafe and Bar. We shared breads with dips to start. Dave had porkbelly with scallops, and mascarpone smashed potatoes. I had lamb cutlet, lamb ribs and seminola cakes with grilled tomatoes.

We just rolled back in after a long day and are headed to bed. Tomorrow is a very full and active day. The weather is also supposed to finally clear up - fingers crossed for that. News reports are all about floods, washed out bridges and rock slides. We knew New Zealand was wet, but even the locals are calling this unusual. That's okay. We haven't let it slow us down yet!

(I didn't get to post this last night because the internet was down. But quick note. We woke up this morning to blue skies and sunshine. And wow, we can see the mountains from our room finally. They all got dumped on with snow last night. The top of Luxmore, where we were yesterday, is covered in white now.)